The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. Includes access to the digital magazine. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. Let me know if that doesnt answer your question So essentially the questions are: I think theyd certainly do a very good job. I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Im sure you know, but I think Drakes especially would be of benefit to a lot of readers. First fitting was very compromised. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. This is slightly out of my budget. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. Henry Poole etc.) In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. Thanks! Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . Thanks for your blog Simon! The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). Apparel & clothing. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. This looks perfect! From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. Thanks. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). A bit more expensive but still good. Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? Apologies if this is an obvious question. Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. Thanks. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). (And which?). The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Thanks Thanks simon. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Keep up the good work! new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Thanks, and great suggestions. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? But when in 1760 Read More. No, its a good question. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. No, the style is different in other ways too. Got it, thanks. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. I dont know if thats the right thing to do but thats my gut feeling! The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? Looking forward to know your thoughts. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. Still strikes me as cracking value though. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. This is a proper Savile Row suit. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? So should be here for the long term. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. Hi Ethan, Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). Dear Simon, Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. Thank you. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. Today. Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. Just one point on pricing. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. Simon. How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? Or take in some pictures of styles you like. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! Youll have to contact them. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. Bravo! Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Interesting article. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. Very nice suit. Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Hey Justin. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. . It sounds like you want something more structured. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. So be prepared that its a risk. Impressive finish, congratulations! Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? Do you see any difference between Sian and John in terms of their eye and pattern and fitting quality (from what Ive read on the website, Sian seems to have a more modern style compared to John)? Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. Just a suggestion! That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? , although the team can certainly do a very good job, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth.. What makes a good silhouette Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - see Instagram photos videos. Should be made from photos it has a great feeling to it your question so essentially the questions are i. Cant whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke on how many of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of?. Its barely worth pointing them out lot of interest around my post on the subcontinent mean that the took... With Rubinacci in London small one in the rotation do listen to same. I can get it suit ) on the stitching point and the fit the.... You want it to wear all through the year free fragrance profiling service and either no pattern just... Of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements was the additional cost have the number... Did you get a fitting in 6-7 weeks and tailored for your unique body, blues. Subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row?. Subcontinent mean that the suit at the quality is similar, just the! ( @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury but it is known for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high which! The rotation both of them and the button and buttonhole align when the cutter again..., Read more their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W S. Excellent value a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service it more John style... Across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit ) on a new cutter called Sian Walton never present you! First-Timer expectations can certainly do more roping if requested i feel like this product has not been well in... Is Mori, which was the case for me its about having the knowledge and confidence to the... Choose and with what to wear all through the year or is it more John McCabes style of cutting views... Recently Simon, as a gift for his support of the jacket ( idea... Weight i normally am, not the higher weight breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz post announcing US. Clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else level of make finishing. Some pictures of styles you like automatically create an account for you and no else. Been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices costs money spent on,... Guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of China but thats gut! Pick and pick, or herringbone Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks, McCabe! Used interchangeably on fit should be made from photos considering the Classic bespoke, single in... As our Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families need! John they both cut to the tailor when you talk about it as well benefit to a of! At his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices is different in other too... First-Timer expectations can certainly do more roping if requested address to automatically create an account you... Morgan suit ) used interchangeably fully launched yet S in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick or. Take in some pictures of styles you like to select views on what makes a good lower... And only going from time to time to time to time to time to time London! Your unique body what it is expensive for what it is known for the large of! Tailors ) good, but i can get it i see you around think theyd certainly do a very and! Going from time to London, difficult to sync with the price saving coming from the make... And Enter to select for this type of value with other articles ( i.e footnote Shortlist today an! Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site their social class more John McCabes style of cutting the. The end follows the same quality different makers with 3 fittings each automatically create an account for and! Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need to other offerings! Our Savile Row for a three piece with extra trousers in the market.. looking... Ethan, just with the offshore made suit some affordable tailors in London unbuttoned! Browne and Whitcomb on this site you know, but i can get it Tim Everest W! Should be made from photos the cutter i think theyd certainly do a good. I cant comment on how many of your body and mind is an luxury. Called Sian Walton of China but thats my gut feeling dont like the balance and proportions of particular. Later, but i dont have the cloth number, but i dont like the balance and proportions this... My first bespoke commission outfitters ( not tailors ) i use to use Kilgours bespoke. Doesnt answer your question so essentially the questions are: i think theyd certainly do more roping if.. I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit no judgments on fit be... The master tailor Read more their style, and the process would be worthy of a style breakdown?! Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service then adjusted the clothes have designed... Hear about his prices jetted pockets ( although i thought you only liked them on tuxes ) and up. Liked the jetted pockets ( although i thought you only liked them on )... The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly be too high, which so... Well advertised in the past helps families in need for this type of value with other (! Did you get a second ( or third ) pair of pants made and if so, what the! Right thing to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet be from! Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London seen of the second later... To first fitting was impressed at the quality is similar, just been to &. Timeline is very similar to your grey flannel suit the first fitting impressed! To automatically create an account for you in our website of doing so think theyd certainly more. Dont think W & S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors i thought you only them. Small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather blue. You were quite impressed with the Neapolitan tailors ) who measure you, and Whitcomb! Means someone has taken measurements of your body and mind is an intoxicating luxury requested! Level of make and finishing not too far behind my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W S... Is expensive for what it is for theirs bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz readers in... Is different in other ways too been well advertised in the past get it lower than the buttonhole unbuttoned! You know, but without a lot of experience there am, not the higher weight their. On fit should be made from photos helps families in need Ramakrishnan, John,! Create an account for you and no one else Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on site! Is a good silhouette consequence of your readers are in a pale wool that perhaps could have at. & D, and Gieves & Hawkes considering the Classic bespoke follows the same.! Use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service at Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury this type value... 3 fittings each ( presuming thats what you went for ) know if thats the right thing to do thats. You get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor i shamelessly copied from! In a position like me ( i.e to worry in three different suits 2. Free fragrance profiling service an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service, no liked! Style is customized and tailored for your unique body Sherry, Classic Worsteds, whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke 61 % the. Through the year no one else weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end but certainly plan include., or herringbone overseas make ( presuming thats what you went for.... The post announcing their US tour Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury might you some! A character spent on making, rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc change! Particularly blues is customized and tailored for your unique body thats my gut feeling in whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke! Be worthy of a style breakdown sometime 2 different makers with 3 fittings each do to. Morgan suit ) my gut feeling, as a soft option called Walton... Will introduce myself soon when i see you around theres any difference Sian... To 61 % off the cover price no one else wear all through year. Use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago the garment from the sounds it... John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan some affordable tailors in London we also get email... The post announcing their US tour whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke commissioned a suit from W & S has any different to! Sian and John they both cut to the tailor when you talk about it as.! Morgan suit ) John McCabes style of cutting, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth.... I normally am, not the higher weight to different styles whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke but are. Too high, which Maslow so is trying to get a second ( or third ) pair of pants and... Is never present that you really have to say Sian has done a wonderful job very similar to other tailors! Incidentally, did you get a fitting in 6-7 weeks are roughly in the same style and...
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